Measure your sit bones
- Put a piece of corrugated card on a low stool or step.
- Sit on it with your feet flat and lean forward a little, as you would on the bike.
- Stand up and find the two dents. Measure between their centres.
Most saddle brands list which sit-bone width each saddle size suits. As a rough rule, the more upright you sit, the wider the saddle you need.
Choose the shape for how you ride
| Riding position | What usually works |
|---|---|
| Low and aggressive (road racing) | Narrower, flatter, often short-nose or with a cutout |
| Moderate (sportive, gravel) | Mid-width, slight curve, pressure-relief channel |
| Upright (commuting, hybrid) | Wider, more padding |
| MTB | Tougher cover, shape that lets you move about |
Cutouts and channels take pressure off soft tissue. They suit many riders, so they're worth trying if you feel numbness.
Set it up
- Height: with your heel on the pedal at the bottom of the stroke, your leg should be almost straight. When you pedal normally there's then a slight bend.
- Angle: start with the saddle level, then adjust slightly if you slide forward or feel pressure.
- Fore and aft: move the saddle on its rails so your knee sits roughly over the pedal axle when the crank is level.
Give a new saddle several rides before deciding. Shorts with a good pad matter too.
Rails and clamps
Steel and titanium rails are round. Carbon rails are often oval (for example 7 x 9mm). Check your seatpost clamp suits them.
FAQs
Is more padding better?
Not always. Too much soft padding can press into soft tissue on long rides.
Why does one side hurt?
Check your saddle is straight and level, and consider a bike fit.
Men's or women's saddle?
Go by fit and sit-bone width, not the label.